#C 41 developing update

Let's say you are processing a fresh film and following the C41 instructions, the film will turn out ok. The pink cast itself is caused by inconsistent processing of the film. Agitate for first minute, 10secs for every min after that. Pour smoothly and completely in one go (300ml for 35mm film, 520ml for 120 film). With your next film, if you do it yourself, have all the chemicals at a uniform temperature (100F +/- 0.5F, even +/- 1.0F won't do any harm). How did you actually pour the developer, in one complete go, or hesitating half way through the pour ? The sharper edge on the left side of the wide pink band indicates that you poured half the developer in, then poured the other half a minute or two later thereby effectively giving the film two different developing times. Did you heat the chemicals one at a time or altogether, or did you heat only the developer and use the others while they were still at ambient room temperature ? For best results, all the chemicals need to be at 100F, and rinsing water as well. The temperatures of the separate chemicals may not have been uniform either. The thinner white streaks look like light leaks. The wide pink band looks to me like the chemicals weren't poured properly and/or agitation was insufficient during the process. Not nearly as important today.Īgree that the 2016 expiry date is of no real consequence unless the film has been subjected to extreme heat at some time in which case it would have color shift and lack sharpness. The huge bulk of my experience was with optical printing, so I come from a time when we were very finicky about the film process. But given that you're scanning, you can probably fix any problems that might show up. Probably a well-controlled test would be the best way to find out if you really wanted to know. I'd expect Portra 800, because of the higher speed, to not hold up as well, but I don't really know for sure. (This was with well-controlled sensitometric testing the tests were not run past a couple years outdated, so who knows what the real limits would be?) That film, stored in typical office conditions, could go a couple years past expiration date with virtually no change from when it was new. My experience has been mainly with Portra 160, back beyond a dozen years. With respect to outdated film, I would not change anything in the process. I dunno what, but make sure that the tank is being filled enough, etc. So the assumption would be that something went wrong in the development stage. I can already see after trying that the blix really can't do anything to help remove what I think is a stain.

#C 41 developing update

Ill come back and update you! Thank you again!

I have quiet a bit of homework to do in regards to looking up good chemicals and their process and where to possibly obtain them (seems like kodak flexicolor is where I should be heading with my choice of film). Thank you so much for your reply bill - I am going to give this a shot. Again, any change at all means that the original treatment was inadequate. So, if there WAS a bleach or fix problem originally, you can probably expect the same chemicals to make at least SOME improvement. (After seeing the test result then you can decide whether or not to treat the entire roll.)Īs a note, you probably don't have any 'known-good' chemicals to work with, but since the ones you have seem to have done a largely ok job this means that they are working at least somewhat ok. With that frame, cut it in half only treat one half, this lets you put the two pieces back together for comparison. Standard practice is not to do the entire roll, but to just clip off a junk frame that you don't care about. If you DO see a change after rebleach/refix then it means the original treatment was somehow inadequate. (Essentially you repeat everything except the developer.) These steps are supposed to go to completion in the film, so if the film was properly processed it won't change at all. Hi, it's difficult to judge by what you're showing, but the #1 rule for a hobbyist processor when troubleshooting such a problem is to rebleach and refix, etc., in known-good chemicals.